For a town that appears to be sponsored by Heineken, Leiden is surprisingly vibrant, bohemian, and independent. Above almost every doorway to each bar and restaurant hangs the instantly recognisable Heineken logo. Yet Leiden, true to its innovative nature, has jettisoned the familiar green colour associated with the famous Dutch brand in favour of a sexy black number.
Therefore, every Heineken parasol shielding diners is a rather glamorous black. The result is quite possibly the sexiest, most chic town in all of The Netherlands. It is arguably also the most beautiful.
Indeed it could be debated that the town is the most charming, pleasant, romantic, and perfect of destinations. It is without doubt a joy to explore for those travellers restrained by time. Simply put, Leiden is a dream for any day-tripper.
Invasion, famine, and death
The town has not always been a scene of tranquil bliss. Its history is troubled and often dark. Spanish invasion, famine, and death have all been witnessed at one time or another on the cobbled streets of Leiden.
A difficult history is good news for present-day visitors. From the numerous historical events stem an array of museums, monuments, and sights of interest, and Leiden’s history is impressive for a relatively small town. It is the birthplace of Rembrandt, and was also once home to the Pilgrims who would later board the Mayflower and head off to the New World.
Signposting is sporadic
Those ingenious fellows at Leiden City Council have capitalised on this vast catalogue of historical events upon which to draw. The Leidse Loper (Leiden Loop) is a wonderful 110 minute self guided walking tour of the town’s sights of interest.
At times the signposting is sporadic, which turns the potentially leisurely stroll around the town into a form of extreme orienteering. This is a good thing, as quaint back alleys reveal themselves. Beautiful houses and apartments, hidden from the main town are unexpectedly uncovered. Tight lanes jammed with bicycles, Vesper scooters, Volkswagen Beetles and Citroen 2CVs demonstrate the bohemian nature of a town with a large student population.
The Leidse Loper is the ideal way to explore Leiden. At each point of interest is a notice-board detailing the historical importance of that particular sight. The route takes the walker to such delights as the building in which one of the first tulips in Holland bloomed, and past the old red light district where a magnificent gate stands, upon which St George is depicted slaying a dragon.
Cunningly diverts
The main shopping district is centred around Haarlemmerstraat, continuing in the direction of Nieuwe Rijn. The area is vibrant with a good range of both independent shops and chain stores. The Leidse Loper cunningly diverts through the area before disappearing down yet another alleyway.
Perhaps the most important aspect of the walk is that it is entirely free of charge. Great news for those on a tight budget, or just frugal in nature. A map of the walking route can be obtained from the tourist office (VVV).
All manner of species
Those left unsatisfied by the Leidse Loper can continue their quest for historical consumption by heading to one of the town’s numerous museums. Unsurprisingly Leiden, being the birthplace of Rembrandt, is also home to the Rembrandt museum (Lakenhal). The Museum Volkenkude is worth a visit for its collection of artefacts from across the globe. A little further to the west of the town centre is the National Museum of Natural History, housing an impressive collection of all manner of species from the natural world.
Take a breather
Away from the Leidse Loper other parts of Leiden are a delight in which to get lost. The town swallows time, its pure prettiness encourages the visitor to continue exploration. Werfpark to the south of the centre is small, but idyllic spot to take a breather. There are also numerous canal side benches on which to perch for a moment or two.
Trains
Trains arrive at Leiden’s modern centraal station within 30 minutes of departure from Amsterdam. Journey time from The Hague is around 10 minutes. Up-to-date train times and ticket prices can be found at ns.nl.
Devious fellows
Leiden is a beautiful, interesting, and easily navigable town in which to wander for a day. Its location on the main line between Amsterdam and The Hague makes it an ideal stopping off destination for travellers heading between the two larger cities.
After a day of strolling through the Leiden there remains little else to do other than grab a cold beer at one of the many canal side bars. Those marketing chaps at Heineken are devious fellows.
Useful links:
Rail –
Domestic – www.ns.nl
International – www.nshispeed.nl
Our fav’ – www.bahn.de
Info –
Good site – Leiden portal
Map:
The 24hr Traveller 